Cosmetic tetrapeptide, composition and use
The tetrapeptide has the general Formula X-LLAN-Z (SEQ ID NO: 6) wherein at the N-terminal end X is selected from H, —CO—R 1 , —SO 2 —R 1 or a biotinoyl group, at the C-terminal end Z is selected from OH, OR 1 , NH 2 , NHR 1 or NR 1 R 2 , and R 1 and R 2 are selected from an alkyl, aryl, aralkyl, alkylaryl, alkoxy, saccharide and aryloxy, said group having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms. A preferred peptide is the Pal-LLAN-OH (SEQ ID NO: 7). This tetrapeptide can stimulate the synthesis of molecules constituting the dermal extracellular matrix, in particular collagen 1 and fibrillin 1, and can be used for a cosmetic treatment, in particular anti-aging, anti wrinkle and fine lines, to improve the skin mechanical properties, firmness/tone/elasticity/flexibility, to increase skin density and volume, for a restructuring effect and/or to fight against stretch marks, and skin sagging. The peptide is also adapted to stimulate hair growth.
1 . A tetrapeptide of Formula 1:
X-LLAN-Z (SEQ ID NO: 6, Formula 1),
wherein:
X is selected from H, —CO—R 1 , —SO 2 —R 1 or a biotinoyl group;
Z is selected from OH, OR 1 , NH 2 , NHR 1 or NR 1 R 2 ; and
R 1 and R 2 are independently selected from alkyl, aryl, aralkyl, alkylaryl, alkoxy, saccharide, or aryloxy group, wherein the group is linear, branched, cyclic, polycyclic, unsaturated, hydroxylated, carbonylated, and/or phosphorylated, wherein the group has no more than 24 carbon atoms, and wherein the group optionally comprises one or more heteroatoms selected from O, S and/or N in its backbone.
2 . The tetrapeptide according to claim 1 , wherein R 1 and R 2 independently have at least 3 carbon atoms.
3 . The tetrapeptide according to claim 1 , wherein X is —CO—R 1 , and Z is a group selected from OH, OMe, OEt or NH 2 .
4 . The tetrapeptide according to claim 1 , wherein the —CO—R 1 group is selected from octanoyl (C8), decanoyl (C10), lauroyl (C12), myristoyl (C14), palmitoyl (C16), stearoyl (C18), elaidoyl, oleoyl or lipoyl.
5 . The tetrapeptide according to claim 1 , wherein Z is OH.
6 . The tetrapeptide according to claim 5 , wherein the peptide is Pal-LLAN-OH (SEQ ID NO: 7).
7 . A cosmetic composition comprising at least one tetrapeptide according to claim 1 and a physiologically acceptable medium.
8 . The composition according to claim 7 , wherein the amount of the tetrapeptide is between 10-7% (w/w) and 20% (w/w) relative to the total weight of the composition.
9 . The composition according to 7, wherein the composition further comprises at least one additional active ingredient selected from the group consisting of vitamin B3, niacinamide, tocopherol, retinoid compounds, hexamidine, α-lipoic acid, resveratrol, dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA), hyaluronic acid and one or more cosmetic peptides.
10 . The composition according to claim 7 , wherein the composition further comprises a mixture of Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR (SEQ ID NO: 2), and/or the peptide Ac-YR-hexadecyl ester.
11 . A method of improving general condition of skin and/or hair in a subject, wherein the method comprises applying at least one tetrapeptide according to claim 1 to the skin and/or the hair of the subject.
12 . The method according to claim 11 , wherein the tetrapeptide is applied topically.
13 . The method according to claim 11 , wherein the method is for anti-aging treatment.
14 . The method according to claim 11 , wherein the method is for one or more of:
treating wrinkles and fine lines;
improving firmness, tone, elasticity, and/or flexibility of the skin;
increasing the density and volume of the skin;
treating stretch marks;
treating skin sagging; and/or
improving the uniformity and radiance of the skin complexion.
15 . The method according to claim 11 , wherein the method is for treating hair.
16 . The method according to claim 15 , wherein the method is for stimulating hair growth.