Cosmetic composition comprising a polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer bearing a(n) (un)saturated hydrocarbon-based chain and a surfactant
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a) one or more polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) copolymers which contain, and preferably consist of, at least two different repeating polymer units chosen from the units (A) and (B) below, and also the optical or geometrical isomers thereof, the organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, and the solvates thereof such as hydrates: -[-0-CH(R 1 )—CH 2 —C(0)-]- unit (A) -[-0-CH(R 2 )—CH 2 —C(0)-]- unit (B) in which polymer units (A) and (B): —R 1 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain chosen from i) linear or branched (C 5 -C 28 )alkyl, ii) linear or branched (C 6 -C 28 )alkenyl, iii) linear or branched (C 6 -C 28 )alkynyl; preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is linear; said hydrocarbon-based chain being optionally substituted and/or interrupted with atoms or groups as described in the description; —R 2 represents a cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group, comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; and b) one or more surfactants; it being understood that (A) is different from (B).
1 . A cosmetic composition comprising:
a) 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight of one or more polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) film-forming copolymers relative to the total weight of the composition, which contain, at least two different repeating polymer units chosen from the units (A) and (B) below, and the optical or geometrical isomers thereof, the organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, and the solvates thereof being selected from the group of hydrates and linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alcohols:
in which polymer units (A) and (B):
R 1 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain chosen from i) linear or branched (C 5 -C 28 )alkyl, ii) linear or branched (C 5 -C 28 )alkenyl, iii) linear or branched (C 5 -C 28 )alkynyl;
said hydrocarbon-based chain being:
optionally substituted with one or more atoms or groups chosen from: a) halogen, b) hydroxyl, c) thiol, d) (di)(C 1 -C 4 )(alkyl)amino, e) (thio)carboxy, f) (thio)carboxamide-C(O)—N(R a ) 2 or C(S)—N(R a ) 2 , g) cyano, h) iso(thio)cyanate, i) (hetero)aryl and j) (hetero)cycloalkyl k) cosmetic active agent; 1) R—X with R representing a group chosen from α) cycloalkyl, β) heterocycloalkyl, γ) (hetero)aryl, δ) cosmetic active agent as defined previously and X representing a′) O, S, N(R a ) or Si(R b )(R c ), b′) S(O) r , or (thio)carbonyl, c′) or combinations of a′) with b′); R a representing a hydrogen atom, or a (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl group or an aryl(C 1 -C 4 )alkyl group R b and R c , which may be identical or different, represent a (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl or (C 1 -C 4 )alkoxy group; and/or
optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms a′) O, S, N(R a ) or Si(R b )(R c ), b′) S(O) r , (thio)carbonyl, c′) or combinations of a′) with b′) with r being equal to 1 or 2, R a being as defined previously, R b and R c being as defined previously;
R 2 represents a cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; and
b) 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight of one or more surfactant(s) relative to the total weight of the composition; and
c) optionally one or more fatty substances;
it being understood that (A) is different from (B), and wherein the unit (A) is present in a molar percentage ranging from 0.1% to 99%; and the unit (B) is present in a molar percentage ranging from 1% to 40% based on the weight of (A) and (B) in the one or more polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) copolymers.
2 . The composition according to claim 1 , in which the one or more polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) film-forming copolymers a) contain the repeating unit of formula (I), and the optical or geometrical isomers thereof, the organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, and the solvates thereof being selected from the group of hydrates and linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alcohols:
in which formula (I):
m and n are integers greater than or equal to 1.
3 . The composition according to claim 1 , in which the one or more polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) film-forming copolymers a) contain three different repeating polymer units (A), (B) and (C), below, and the optical or geometrical isomers thereof and the solvates thereof being selected from the group of hydrates and linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alcohols:
in which polymer units (A), (B) and (C):
R 3 represents a cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; and
it being understood that:
(A) is different from (B) and (C), (B) is different from (A) and (C), and (C) is different from (A) and (B).
4 . The composition according to claim 1 , in which the one or more polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) film-forming copolymers a) contain four different repeating polymer units (A), (B), (C) and (D), below, and the optical or geometrical isomers thereof, the organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, and also the solvates thereof being selected from the group of hydrates and linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alcohols:
in which polymer units (A), (B), (C) and (D):
R 4 represents a cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or more atoms or groups a) to 1) and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups a′) to c′) as defined for R 1 ; and
it being understood that:
(A) is different from (B), (C) and (D), (B) is different from (A), (C) and (D), (C) is different from (A), (B) and (D), and (D) is different from (A), (B) and (C).
5 . The composition according to claim 1 , in which the one or more polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) film-forming copolymers a) contain five different repeating polymer units (A), (B), (C), (D) and (E), and the optical or geometrical isomers thereof, the organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, and also the solvates thereof being selected from the group of hydrates and linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alcohols:
in which polymer units (A), (B), (C), (D) and (E):
R 5 represents a cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or more atoms or groups a) to l) and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups a′) to c′) as defined for R 1 ;
it being understood that:
(A) is different from (B), (C), (D) and (E); (B) is different from (A), (C), (D) and (E); (C) is different from (A), (B), (D) and (E); (D) is different from (A), (B), (C) and (E); and (E) is different from (A), (B), (C) and (D).
6 . The composition according to claim 1 , in which R 1 represents a linear or branched (C 5 -C 28 )alkyl hydrocarbon-based chain.
7 . The composition according to claim 1 , in which R 1 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain.
8 . The composition according to claim 1 , in which R 1 has the following formula —(CH 2 ) r —X-(ALK) u -G with X being as defined previously, ALK represents a linear or branched (C 1 -C 10 )alkylene, r represents an integer inclusively between 6 and 11, u is equal to 0 or 1; and G represents a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from hydroxyl, carboxyl, (di)(C 1 -C 4 )(alkyl)amino, (hetero)aryl, cycloalkyl, or a sugar.
9 . The composition according to claim 1 , in which the one or more polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) film-forming copolymers a) are such that R 2 is chosen from linear or branched (C 1 -C 28 )alkyl, and linear or branched (C 2 -C 28 )alkenyl.
10 . The composition according to claim 1 , in which the one or more polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) film-forming copolymers a) are such that the radical R 2 is a linear (C 1 -C 8 )alkyl group; or R 2 is a branched (C 3 -C 8 )alkyl.
11 . The composition according to claim 3 , in which the one or more polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA film-forming copolymers a) are such that:
the unit (A) is present in a molar percentage ranging from 0.5% to 50%; and
the unit (B) is present in a molar percentage ranging from 2% to 10% and/or
the unit (C) is present in a molar percentage ranging from 0.5% to 20%.
12 . The composition according to claim 1 , in which b) the surfactant(s) are ionic; and/or the surfactant(s) b) have a HLB value greater than 10.
13 . The composition according to claim 1 , which is a direct emulsion.
14 . The composition according to claim 1 , which is an inverse emulsion.
15 . The composition according to claim 1 , in which the fatty medium comprises one or more substances chosen from:
branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes,
linear C 8 -C 16 alkanes;
ester oils;
monoester oils of formula R 9 —C(O)—OR 10 in which R 9 represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain including from 5 to 19 carbon atoms and R 10 represents a linear or branched, notably branched, hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, on condition that R 9 +R 10 ≥9 carbon atoms;
esters of lactic acid and of C 10 -C 20 alcohol;
diesters of malic acid and of C 10 -C 20 alcohol;
esters of pentaerythritol and of C 8 -C 22 carboxylic acid;
diesters of formula R 11 —O—C(═O)—R 12 —C(═O)—O—R 13 , with R 11 and R 13 , which may be identical or different, representing a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 4 to C 12 alkyl chain, optionally containing at least one saturated or unsaturated ring, and R 12 representing a saturated or unsaturated C 1 to C 4 , alkylene chain;
diesters of formula R 14 —C(═O)—O—R 15 —O—C(═O)—R 16 , with R 14 and R 16 , which may be identical or different, representing a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 4 to C 12 alkyl chain and R 15 representing a saturated or unsaturated C 1 to C 4 alkylene chain;
the carbonate oils being chosen from the carbonates of the following formula R 17 —O—C(O)—O—R 18 , with R 17 and R 18 , which may be identical or different, representing a linear or branched C 4 to C 12 alkyl chain;
and mixtures thereof.
16 . The composition according to claim 1 , in which the fatty medium comprises one or more fatty substances in a content ranging from 2% to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
17 . The composition according to claim 1 , in which the fatty medium comprises one or more solvents.
18 . The composition according to claim 1 , which further comprises one or more colouring agents chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
19 . A process for treating keratin materials by applying the composition as defined in claim 1 .
20 . The composition according to claim 1 , in which the one or more polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) film-forming copolymers a) are such that they comprise the following repeating units, and the optical or geometrical isomers thereof, the organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, and the solvates thereof being selected from the group of hydrates and linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alcohols:
Com-
pounds
R 1
R 2
(1)
—(CH 2 ) 8 —S—CH(CH 3 )—C(O)—OH
—(CH 2 ) 4 —CH 3
(2)
—(CH 2 ) 8 —S—(CH 2 ) 7 —CH 3
—(CH 2 ) 4 —CH 3
(3)
—(CH 2 ) 8 —S—(CH 2 ) 8 —OH
—(CH 2 ) 4 —CH 3
(4)
—(CH 2 ) 8 —S—(CH 2 ) 2 —NH 2
—(CH 2 ) 4 —CH 3
(5)
—(CH 2 ) 8 —S—Cycl
—(CH 2 ) 4 —CH 3
(6)
—(CH 2 ) 8 —S—CH 2 —Fur
—(CH 2 ) 4 —CH 3
(7)
—(CH 2 ) 8 —S—Sug
—(CH 2 ) 4 —CH 3
(8)
—(CH 2 ) 8 —S—(CH 2 ) 2 —Ar
—(CH 2 ) 4 —CH 3
(9)
—(CH 2 ) 8 —S—CH 2 —Ar′
—(CH 2 ) 4 —CH 3
(10)
—(CH 2 ) 8 —S—CH(CH 3 )—C(O)—OH
—(CH 2 ) 5 —CH 3
(11)
—(CH 2 ) 5 —Hal
—(CH 2 ) 5 —CH 3
(12)
—(CH 2 ) 3 —CN
—(CH 2 ) 5 —CH 3
(13)
—(CH 2 ) 5 —CH 3
(14)
—(CH 2 ) 2 —Ar
—(CH 2 ) 5 —CH 3
(15)
—(CH 2 ) 4 —CH 3
—(CH 2 ) 2 —CH 3
(16)
—(CH 2 ) 5 —CH 3
—(CH 2 ) 3 —CH 3
(17)
—(CH 2 ) 6 —CH 3
—(CH 2 ) 4 —CH 3
(18)
—(CH 2 ) 8 —CH 3
—(CH 2 ) 6 —CH 3
(19)
—(CH 2 ) 3 —CH(CH 3 )CH 3
—CH 2 —CH(CH 3 )CH 3
(20)
—(CH 2 ) 6 —CH═CH 2
—(CH 2 ) 5 —CH 3
(21)
—(CH 2 ) 2 —CH═C(CH 3 )CH 3
—CH 2 —CH(CH 3 )CH 3
m and n are aintegers greater that or equal to 1,
Hal represents a halogen atom and
t represents an integer between 1 and 10,
Ar: represents a (hetero)aryl group;
Ar′: represents a (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl(hetero aryl group;
Cycl: represents a cyclohexyl group;
Fur: represents a furyl group; and
Sug: represents a sugar group.
21 . The composition according to claim 1 , in which the one or more polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) film-forming copolymers a) wherein R 1 of the unit (A) a saturated hydrocarbon-based chain and the unit (A) is present in a molar percentage between 60% and 90% of the one or more polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) copolymers a).
22 . The composition according to claim 20 , wherein the one or more polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) film-forming copolymers a) bear a chain R 1 representing a n-pentyl group and R 2 representing a n-propyl group; or bear a chain R 1 representing a n-hexyl group and R 2 representing a n-butyl group; or bear a chain R 1 representing a n-nonyl group and R 2 representing a n-heptyl group.