Treatment and composition for achieving skin anti-aging benefits by corneum protease activation
View Patent ↗Novel methods and compositions for treating aged and environmentally damaged skin are disclosed which provide improvements in the skin's visual appearance, function and clinical/biophysical properties by activating at least one proteolytic enzyme in the skin's stratum corneum. The disclosed treatment methods involve topical application of a novel cosmetic composition containing a combination of a cationic surfactant such as N,N,-dimethyldodecyl amine oxide (DMDAO), an anionic surfactant such as sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), or monoalkyl phosphate (MAP) and a chelating agent such as ethylene diamine tetraacetate (EDTA) to stimulate a chronic increase in the replacement rate of the skin's stratum corneum by means of corneum protease activation. This chronic, low level stimulation is effective to induce repair and replacement of the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis of the skin and improvements in the appearance, function, and anti-aging properties of the skin.
1. A method of treating dry, aged, or damaged skin comprising topical application to the skin ef a cosmetic composition comprising:
(i) a vehicle; and
(ii) a component comprising:
a chemically compatible combination of a cationic and an anionic surfactant,
wherein said cationic surfactant is DMDAO and said anionic surfactant is chosen from SDS and MAP; and
at least one chelating agent,
wherein the component is effective in providing chronic stimulation of said skin's stratum corneum turnover rate, and a reduction in said stratum corneum turnover time by activating one or more of said skin's endogenous stratum corneum protease enzymes.
2. The method of according to claim 1 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease stratum corneum turnover time.
3. The method according to claim 2 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease stratum corneum turnover time by from about 1% to about 40%.
4. The method according to claim 2 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease stratum corneum turnover time by at least about 25%.
5. The method according to claim 1 wherein said treatment is effective to reduce TEWL.
6. The method according to claim 5 wherein said treatment is effective to reduce TEWL by from about 0% to about 100%.
7. The method according to claim 5 wherein said treatment is effective to reduce TEWL by at least about 1%.
8. The method according to claim 1 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease canthus skin roughness.
9. The method according to claim 8 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease canthus skin roughness by from about 1% to about 60%.
10. The method according to claim 8 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease canthus skin roughness by from about 1% to about 9%.
11. The method according to claim 1 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease number of wrinkles on the canthus.
12. The method according to claim 11 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease number of wrinkles on the canthus by from about 1% to about 60%.
13. The method according to claim 11 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease number of wrinkles on the canthus by at least about 9%.
14. The method according to claim 1 wherein said treatment is effective to increase skin moisture on the canthus.
15. The method according to claim 14 wherein said treatment is effective to increase skin moisture on the canthus by from about 1% to about 90%.
16. The method according to claim 14 wherein said treatment is effective to increase skin moisture on the canthus by at least about 21%.
17. The method according to claim 1 wherein said treatment is effective to increase skin moisture on the cheek.
18. The method according to claim 17 wherein said treatment is effective to increase skin moisture on the cheek by from about 1% to about 90%.
19. The method according to claim 17 wherein said treatment is effective to increase skin moisture on the cheek by at least about 14%.
20. The method according to claim 1 wherein said cosmetic composition is applied at least once per day.
21. The method according to claim 20 wherein said cosmetic composition is applied twice per day.
22. The method according to claim 1 wherein said component comprises a chemically compatible combination of the following, in proportions based on the total weight of said cosmetic composition:
a) from about 0.01% to about 5.0% of the cationic surfactant;
b) from about 0.0 1% to about 5.0% of the anionic surfactant; and
c) from about 0.0 1% to about 5.0% of the chelating agent.
23. The method according to claim 22 wherein said component comprises a chemically compatible combination of the following, in proportions based on the total weight of said cosmetic composition:
a) from about 0.18% to about 0.36% of the cationic surfactant;
b) from about 0.06% to about 0.12% of the anionic surfactant; and
c) from about 0.15% to about 0.30% of chelating agent.
24. The method according to claim 1 wherein said anionic surfactant is SDS.
25. The method according to claim 1 wherein said anionic surfactant is MAP.
26. The method according to claim 1 wherein said chelating agent is EDTA.
27. A method of treating dry, aged, or environmentally damaged skin comprising topical application of a cosmetic composition comprising a chemically compatible combination of:
(i) a vehicle; and
(ii) a component comprising at least one cationic surfactant, at least one anionic surfactant, and at least one chelating agent, in an amount effective to provide chronic stimulation of said skin's stratum corneum turnover rate, and a reduction is said stratum corneum turnover time, by activating one or more of said skin's endogenous corneum protease enzymes, and
(iii) a compound comprising humectant properties, antioxidant properties, moisturizing properties, ultraviolet light absorbing properties, or skin lightening properties, wherein said cationic surfactant is DMDAO and said anionic surfactant is SDS or MAP, and wherein the composition comprises a pH of about 5 to about 8.
28. The method according to claim 27 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease stratum corneum turnover time by from about 1% to about 40%.
29. The method according to claim 27 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease stratum corneum turnover time by at least about 25%.
30. The method according to claim 27 wherein said treatment is effective to reduce TEWL.
31. The method according to claim 30 wherein said treatment is effective to reduce TEWL by from about 0% to about 100%.
32. The method according to claim 30 wherein said treatment is effective to reduce TEWL by at least about 1%.
33. The method according to claim 27 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease canthus skin roughness by from about 1% to about 60%.
34. The method according to claim 33 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease canthus skin roughness by at least about 9%.
35. The method according to claim 27 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease number of wrinkles at the canthus by from about 1% to about 60%.
36. The method according to claim 35 wherein said treatment is effective to decrease number of wrinkles at the canthus by at least about 9%.
37. The method according to claim 27 wherein said treatment is effective to increase skin moisture of the canthus skin by from about 1% to about 90%.
38. The method according to claim 37 wherein said treatment is effective to increase skin moisture of the canthus skin by at least about 21%.
39. The method according to claim 27 wherein said treatment is effective to increase skin moisture of the skin of the cheek by from about 1% to about 90%.
40. The method according to claim 39 wherein said treatment is effective to increase skin moisture of the skin of the cheek by at least about 14%.
41. The method according to claim 27 wherein said cosmetic composition is applied at least once per day.
42. The method according to claim 41 wherein said cosmetic composition is applied twice per day.
43. The method according to claim 27 wherein said component comprises a chemically compatible combination of the following, in proportions based on the total weight of said cosmetic composition:
a) from about 0.0 1% to about 5.0% of the cationic surfactant;
b) from about 0.0 1% to about 5.0% of the anionic surfactant; and
c) from about 0.0 1% to about 5.0% of the chelating agent.
44. The method according to claim 43 wherein said component comprises a chemically compatible combination of the following, in proportions based on the weight of the composition:
a) from about 0.18% to about 0.3 6% of the cationic surfactant;
b) from about 0.06% to about 0.12% of the anionic surfactant; and
c) from about 0.15% to about 0.30% of the chelating agent.
45. The method according to claim 27 wherein said chelating agent is EDTA.
46. The method according to claim 27 wherein said anionic surfactant is SDS.
47. The method according to claim 27 wherein said anionic surfactant is MAP.
48. The method according to claim 27 wherein said composition consists of the vehicle, the cationic surfactant, the anionic surfactant, and chelating agent.
49. The method according to claim 27 wherein said component comprises in proportions based on the total weight of said cosmetic composition:
a) from about 0.01% to about 5.0% of the cationic surfactant;
b) from about 0.01% to about 5.0% of the anionic surfactant; and
c) from about 0.15% to about 0.3% of the chelating agent.
50. The method according to claim 1 wherein said composition comprises a pH of about 5 to about 8.
51. The method according to claim 1 wherein said composition consists of the vehicle, the cationic surfactant, the anionic surfactant, and the chelating agent.
52. The method according to claim 1 wherein said composition comprises a compound comprising humectant properties, antioxidant properties, moisturizing properties, ultraviolet light absorbing properties, or skin lightening properties.
53. The method according to claim 1 wherein said component comprises in proportions based on the total weight of said cosmetic composition:
a) from about 0.01% to about 5.0% of the cationic surfactant;
b) from about 0.01% to about 5.0% of the anionic surfactant; and
c) from about 0.15% to about 0.3% of the chelating agent.
54. The method according to claim 1 , wherein said component comprises from about from about 0.15% to about 0.3% of the chelating agent.