Oxidative treatment of hair with reduced hair damage
View Patent ↗The present invention relates to hair care compositions comprising chelants and methods for reducing oxidative hair damage. The compositions contribute to reducing the oxidative damage sustained by keratinous fibers such as human hair during bleaching, dyeing, perming or other oxidative treatments. The compositions according to the present invention also provide excellent color evenness and color fastness.
1. A composition suitable for treating hair comprising:
a) an oxidizing agent; and
b) a chelant (L) having a
log
K
CuL
log
K
CaL
ratio calculated at pH 10 of at least about 3.20, wherein log K CuL is the common logarithm of the Conditional Stability Constant of said chelant with Cu 2+ and log K CaL is the common logarithm of the Conditional Stability Constant of said chelant with Ca 2+ ;
wherein said chelant is an aminocarboxylic acid chelant selected from the group consisting of ethylenediamine-N,N′-disuccinic acid (EDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N′diglutaric acid (EDDG), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N′-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), glycinamide-N,N′-disuccinic acid (GADS), ethylenediamine-N-N′-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), and salts thereof, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof; and
wherein said chelant is in an amount sufficient to provide a Normalized Shine Ratio of at least about 0.95 as measured by the Goniophotometer Damage Assessing Protocol after a 5-Cycle Hair Oxidative Treatment Protocol With 10 Intermediate Washes.
2. A composition according to claim 1 , wherein said chelant (L) has a Hydrogen Peroxide Decomposition Ratio (% Loss) of less than about 10% as measured by the Hydrogen Peroxide Decomposition Ratio Measurement Protocol.
3. A composition according to claim 1 , wherein said chelant (L) is capable of fonning a hexadendate complex with Cu 2+ .
4. A composition according to claim 1 , wherein said oxidizing agent is present at a level of from about 0.1% to about 40% by weight of the composition and is selected from water-soluble oxidizing agents and mixtures thereof.
5. A composition according to claim 1 , further comprising at least one oxidative hair dye precursor.
6. A composition according to claim 1 , wherein said composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
7. A composition according to claim 1 , wherein said composition is in the form of a thickened aqueous solution.
8. A composition according to claim 1 , wherein said composition has a pH from about 8 to about 12.
9. A method of treating hair, said method comprising the steps of:
i) applying a first composition comprising an oxidizing agent;
ii) applying a second composition comprising a chelant (L) having a
log
K
CuL
log
K
CaL
ratio calculated at pH 10 of at least about 3.20, wherein log K CuL is the common logarithm of the Conditional Stability Constant of said chelant with Cu 2+ and log K CaL is the common logarithm of the Conditional Stability Constant of said chelant with Ca 2+ :
wherein said chelant is an aminocarboxylic acid chelant selected from the group consisting of ethylenediamine-N,N′-disuccinic acid (EDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N′-diglutaric acid (EDDG) 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N′-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), glycinamide-N,N′-disuccinic acid (GADS), ethylenediamine-N-N′-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), and salts thereof, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof; and
wherein said chelant is in an amount sufficient to provide a Normalized Shine Ratio of at least about 0.95 as measured by the Goniophotometer Damage Assessing Protocol after a 5-Cycle Hair Oxidative Treatment Protocol With 10 Intermediate Washes; and
iii) applying a third composition comprising a second oxidizing agent; and
wherein steps i) and iii) are separated by at least 1 day and step ii) does not take place immediately before step iii).
10. A method of treating hair, said method comprising the steps of:
i) applying to the hair a first composition comprising a chelant (L) having a
log
K
CuL
log
K
CaL
ratio calculated at pH 10 of at least about 3.20, wherein log K CuL is the common logarithm of the Conditional Stability Constant of said chelant with Cu 2+ and log K CaL is the common logarithm of the Conditional Stability Constant of said chelant with Ca 2+ ;
wherein said chelant is an aminocarboxylic acid chelant selected from the group consisting of ethylenediamine-N,N′-disuccinic acid EDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N′-diglutaric acid (EDDG), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N′-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), glycinamide -N,N′-disuccinic acid (GADS), ethylenediamine-N-N′-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), and salts thereof, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof; and
wherein said chelant is in an amount sufficient to provide a Normalized Shine Ratio of at least about 0.95 as measured by the Goniophotometer Damage Assessing Protocol after a 5-Cycle Hair Oxidative Treatment Protocol With 10 Intermediate Washes; and
ii) applying to the hair a second composition comprising an oxidizing agent;
wherein step i) takes place before step ii).
11. A method of treating hair according to claim 10 , wherein step i) takes place immediately before step ii).
12. A method of treating hair according to claim 10 , wherein said first composition is not rinsed off the hair before said second composition is applied to the hair.
13. A kit for treating hair comprising:
i) a first separately packaged composition comprising a chelant (L) having a
log
K
CuL
log
K
CaL
ratio calculated at pH 10 of at least about 3.20, wherein log K CuL is the common logarithm of the Conditional Stability Constant of said chelant with Cu 2+ and log K CaL is the common logarithm of the Conditional Stability Constant of said chelant with Ca 2+ ;
wherein said chelant is an aminocarboxylic acid chelant selected from the group consisting of ethylenediamine-N,N′-disuccinic acid (EDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N′-diglutaric acid (EDDG), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N′-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), glycinamide-N,N′-disuccinic acid (GADS), ethylenediamine-N-N′-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), and salts thereof, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof; and
wherein said chelant is in an amount sufficient to provide a Normalized Shine Ratio of at least about 0.95 as measured by the Goniophotometer Damage Assessing Protocol after a 5-Cycle Hair Oxidative Treatment Protocol With 10 Intermediate Washes; and
ii) a second separately packaged composition comprising an oxidizing agent.
14. A kit for dyeing hair comprising a first and a second compositions packaged in different containers, wherein said first composition comprises an oxidizing agent and said second composition comprises an oxidative dye precursor, wherein the resulting mixture of said first and second compositions is a composition according to claim 5 .
15. A method of dyeing human hair, said method comprising the steps of:
i) mixing the first and second composition of a kit according to claim 14 ;
ii) applying the mixture obtained after step i) to hair;
iii) massaging said mixture into hair;
iv) retaining said mixture on the hair for an amount of time sufficient for mixture to dye the hair;
iv) rinsing off said composition with water.