Method to make elastic shirting fabric comprising spandex and hard yarn
Methods for making stretch shirting fabric having fabric weight less than 175 g/m 2 and fabric stretch between 15% to 45% in the weft direction are disclosed. A corespun composite elastomeric yarn is produced either (a) by low draft (2.7× or below) core-spinning of the elastomeric yarn, or (b) by pretreating the corespun composite yarn in steam or heated water at temperatures of at least 110° C. to reduce yarn power before dyeing or weaving. The shirting fabric with such corespun composite elastomeric yarn in the weft meets end-use specifications without heat-setting.
1 . A method for making a stretch shirting fabric, comprising:
(a) core-spinning an elastomeric fiber and a hard fiber to form a composite core-spun elastomeric yarn, wherein the elastomeric fiber is drafted to no more than 2.7× of its original length during core-spin covering;
(b) weaving a shirting fabric with the composite core-spun yarn in the weft direction; and
(c) further processing the fabric without heat-setting.
2 . The method of claim 1 , wherein the elastomeric fiber is bare spandex yarn from 11 to 44 dtex.
3 . The method of claim 1 , wherein the hard fiber is a hard yarn with a yarn count from 10 to 80 Ne.
4 . The method of claim 3 , wherein the hard yarn is cotton.
5 . The method of claim 1 , wherein the elastomeric fiber is a bare spandex yarn from 17 to 33 dtex, the hard fiber is a hard yarn with yarn count from 30 to 60 Ne, and the spandex yarn is drafted no more than 2.5× its original length during core-spin covering.
6 . The method of claim 1 , wherein further processing comprises one or more steps selected from the group consisting of: cleaning, bleaching, dyeing, drying, compacting, sanforizing, singeing, de-sizing, mercerizing, and any combination of such steps.
7 . A stretch shirting fabric made by the method of claim 1 .
8 . The fabric of claim 7 , wherein the Fabric Cover Factor is between about 45% to about 70% in warp direction and from about 30% to about 50% in weft direction.
9 . The fabric of claim 7 , wherein the elongation in the weft direction is from about 15% to about 45%.
10 . The fabric of claim 7 , having a weave pattern selected from the group consisting of: plain, 2/1 twill, 3/1 twill, oxford, poplin, dobby, sateen, and satin.
11 . The fabric of claim 7 , wherein the elastomeric fiber is spandex, and the fabric contains from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total fabric weight per square meter of spandex.
12 . The fabric of claim 7 , wherein the fabric has a weight of 175 g/m 2 or less, and after washing has a shrinkage of 10% or less.
13 . A garment formed from the stretch shirting fabric of claim 7 .
14 . A method for making a stretch shirting fabric, comprising:
(a) core-spinning an elastomeric fiber and a hard fiber to form a composite core-spun elastomeric yarn;
(b) pretreating the composite corespun elastomeric yarn with hot water or steam at a temperature of at least 110° C. before dyeing or weaving;
(c) weaving a shirting fabric with the composite core-spun yarn in the weft direction; and
(d) further processing the fabric without heat-setting.
15 . The method of claim 14 , wherein the pretreatment is with steam in an autoclave at a temperature of from 110° C. to 130° C. for 6 to 60 minutes.
16 . The method of claim 14 , wherein the pretreatment is with hot water in a yarn package dyer at a temperature of from 110° C. to 132° C. for 5 to 30 minutes.
17 . The method of claim 14 , wherein the elastomeric fiber is bare spandex yarn from 22 to 156 dtex and the hard fiber is a hard yarn with yarn count from 10 to 80 Ne.
18 . The method of claim 14 , wherein the elastomeric fiber is bare spandex yarn from 44 to 78 dtex and the hard fiber is a hard yarn with yarn count from 30 to 60 Ne.
19 . The method of claim 18 , wherein the hard yarn is cotton.
20 . The method of claim 14 , wherein further processing comprises one or more steps selected from the group consisting of: cleaning, bleaching, dyeing, drying, compacting, sanforizing, singeing, de-sizing, mercerizing, and any combination of such steps.
21 . A stretch shirting fabric made by the method of claim 14 .
22 . The fabric of claim 21 , wherein the Fabric Cover Factor is between about 45% and about 70%.
23 . The fabric of claim 21 , wherein the elongation in the weft direction is from about 15% to about 45%.
24 . The fabric of claim 21 , having a weave pattern selected from the group consisting of: plain, 2/1 twill, 3/1 twill, oxford, poplin, dobby, sateen, and satin.
25 . The fabric of claim 21 , wherein the elastomeric fiber is spandex, and the fabric contains from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total fabric weight per square meter of spandex.
26 . The fabric of claim 21 , wherein the fabric has a weight of 175 g/m 2 or less, and after washing has a shrinkage of 10% or less.
27 . A garment formed from the stretch shirting fabric of claim 21.