Composition and Method for the Smoothing of Fibres Containing Keratin
The invention relates to a composition which is oxidatively effective on keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, and which, besides at least one oxidizing agent, comprises an active ingredient combination of (a) a selected cationic polymer, (b) at least one mono- or di(C 8 - to C 30 )-alkylammonium salt and (c) at least one quaternary ammonium compound which carries at least one selected group on the quaternized nitrogen atom, and to a method of reshaping keratin-containing fibers, in which this composition is used, and to the use of this composition for fixing in the course of hair reshaping. The reshaping is improved through these compositions and the fiber receives excellent care and structure retention.
1 . A composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and an active ingredient combination of the components
(a) a cationic polymer which has at least one structural element of the general formula (I),
in which
R 1 is a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 -C 4 )-alkyl group,
R 2 , R 3 and R 4 , independently of one another, are (C 1 -C 4 )-alkyl groups, (C 2 -C 4 )-alkenyl groups or (C 2 -C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl groups,
m is a number 1, 2, 3 or 4 and
X − is a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion,
(b) at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the formula (II)
(R 5 ) y (Me) (4-y) N + Y − (II)
where
R 5 is a linear or branched (C 8 -C 30 )-alkyl group,
y is 1 or 2 and
Y − is a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion, and
(c) at least one quaternary ammonium compound which comprises at least one group of the formula (III),
R 6 -A 1 -A 2 -A 3 - (III),
where
R 6 is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally substituted (C 8 -C 30 )-hydrocarbon group,
A 1 is a carbonyl group or a direct bond,
A 2 is a direct bond, NH or an oxygen atom and
A 3 is a (C 2 -C 4 ) -alkylene group or a (C 2 -C 4 )-hydroxyalkylene group, with the provisos that
A 3 bonds to the quaternary nitrogen atom of the quaternary ammonium compound and
A 3 is a (C 2 -C 4 )-hydroxyalkylene group when
A 1 and A 2 are a direct bond.
2 . The composition as claimed in claim 1 , characterized in that the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
3 . The composition as claimed in one of claims 1 and 2 , characterized in that the oxidizing agent is present in an amount of from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
4 . The composition as claimed in one of claims 1 to 3 , characterized in that the cationic polymer which has at least one structural element according to formula (I) is a homopolymer of this structural element.
5 . The composition as claimed in one of claims 1 to 4 , characterized in that the polymer is present in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
6 . The composition as claimed in one of claims 1 to 5 , characterized in that the compound according to formula (II) is chosen from salts of dicetyldimethylammonium, of cetyltrimethylammonium, of distearyldimethylammonium or of stearyltrimethylammonium.
7 . The composition as claimed in one of claims 1 to 6 , characterized in that the quantitative ratio of components (a) to (b) is in the range from 0.2:1 to 5:1.
8 . The composition as claimed in one of claims 1 to 7 , characterized in that the quantitative ratio of components (a) to (c) is in the range from 0.2:1 to 5:1.
9 . The composition as claimed in one of claims 1 to 8 , characterized in that the quaternary ammonium compounds (c) are present in an amount of from 0.05 to 5% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
10 . The composition as claimed in one of claims 1 to 9 , characterized in that the quaternary ammonium compounds (c) are chosen from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds which carry one or two groups according to formula (III).
11 . The composition as claimed in one of claims 1 to 10 , characterized in that the radical R 6 according to formula (III) is a linear or branched (C 8 -C 30 )-alkyl group, linear or branched (C 8 -C 30 )-alkenyl group, a hydroxy-(C 8 -C 30 )-alkyl group or an oligohydroxy-(C 8 -C 30 )-alkyl group.
12 . The composition as claimed in one of claims 1 to 10 , characterized in that the group according to formula (III) is chosen from an ω-[(C 8 -C 30 )-alkanoyloxy]-(C 2 -C 4 )-alkyl group, an ω-[(C 8 -C 30 )-alkylamido]-(C 2 -C 4 )-alkyl group, or a (C 10 -C 36 )-hydroxyalkyl group.
13 . The composition as claimed in one of claims 1 to 10 , characterized in that the quaternary ammonium compound (c) of claim 1 is chosen from compounds according to formula (c1)
in which
R 7 and R 8 , independently of one another, are a hydrogen atom, a (C 2 - to C 30 ) -acyl group or a linear or branched (C 1 - to C 30 )-alkyl group,
R 6 is a linear or branched (C 8 - to C 30 )-alkyl group or a linear or branched (C 8 - to C 30 )-alkenyl group,
A 1 is a direct bond or a carbonyl group,
A 2 is a direct bond, a group NH or an oxygen atom,
A 3 is a (C 2 - to C 4 )-alkylene group or a (C 2 - to C 4 )-hydroxyalkylene group and
Q − is a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion,
with the proviso that A 3 is a (C 2 - to C 4 )-hydroxyalkylene group if A 1 and A 2 are a direct bond.
14 . The composition as claimed in one of claims 1 to 10 , characterized in that the quaternary ammonium compound (c) of claim 1 is chosen from compounds according to formula (c2)
in which
R 7 and R 8 , independently of one another, are a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 - to C 4 ) -alkyl group or (C 2 - to C 4 )-hydroxyalkyl group,
R 6 is a linear or branched (C 8 - to C 30 )-alkyl group, linear or branched (C 8 - to C 30 )-alkenyl group, a hydroxy-(C 8 - to C 30 )alkyl group or an oligohydroxy-(C 8 - to C 30 )-alkyl group,
A 1 is a carbonyl group
A 2 is a group NH or an oxygen atom,
A 3 is a (C 2 - to C 4 )-alkylene group, a (C 2 - to C 4 )-hydroxyalkylene group and
Z − is a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion.
15 . The composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 14 , characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one silicone.
16 . A method for the reshaping of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that
(i) the fibers are shaped with the help of shaping aids after, before or during step (ii),
(ii) an aqueous composition comprising at least one keratin-reducing compound is applied to the fibers,
(iii) the fibers are rinsed and optionally dried after a contact time Z1,
(iv) then a composition according to one of claims 1 to 15 is applied to the smoothed fibers and rinsed out again after a contact time Z2.
17 . The method as claimed in claim 16 , characterized in that the keratin-containing fibers are wetted before step (i).
18 . The use of at least one composition as claimed in one of claims 1 to 15 for the fixing of reshaped keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.
19 . A kit-of-parts comprising
(a) a composition as claimed in one of claims 1 to 15 ,
(b) an aqueous composition comprising at least one keratin-reducing compound,
where each of the compositions from (a) and (b) is packaged in a separate container and
(c) optionally
(i)one or more safety materials for avoiding undesired contact between the preparations and the human body, preferably gloves and/or
(ii) one or more treatment agents in the form of a conditioner.