Gel-based lipstick having improved rheology
View Patent ↗Gel-based lipstick compositions are disclosed comprising an ester terminated poly(ester-amide) (ETPEA) polymeric gellant, a first wax component having a melting point above the sol-gel transition temperature of the ETPEA gellant, a second wax compositions having a melting point equal to of below the sol-gel transition temperature of the ETPEA gellant, optionally a silicone T-resin co-gellent, and one or more oils capable of forming a gel with the ETPEA gellant. The gel compositions are solid or semi-solid at room temperature and are capable of being molded into self-supporting sticks. The disclosed gels provide high gloss films when applied to the lips and/or provide a rheology characterized by a high viscosity over repeated shear cycles.
1. A method for imparting an unctuous film to the lips comprising applying thereto a composition comprising:
(a) from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight of Bis-Stearyl Ethylenediamine/Neopentyl Glycol/Stearyl Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate copolymer having an average molecular weight between 3,000 and 7,500 Daltons and being capable of forming a gel with low-polarity and nonpolar oils at or below a sol-gel transition temperature T gel wherein T gel is above body temperature;
(b) from 5 to 12% by weight of a first wax component comprising linear polyethylene and microcrystalline petroleum wax having a melting point above T gel ; wherein said first wax component equals or exceeds, on a weight basis, the amount of said Bis-Stearyl Ethylenediamine/Neopentyl Glycol/Stearyl Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate copolymer;
(c) from 5 to 12% by weight of a second wax component comprising ozokerite and lanolin having a melting point at or below T gel ; and
(d) from 40 to 80% by weight of one or more low-polarity or nonpolar ester oils capable of forming a gel with said Bis-Stearyl Ethylenediamine/Neopentyl Glycol/Stearyl Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate copolymer at or below said sol-gel transition temperature T gel ; wherein the weight ratio of Bis-Stearyl Ethylenediamine/Neopentyl Glycol/Stearyl Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate copolymer to said ester oils is less than 1:30; wherein said ester oils comprise an oil selected from triisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, diisopropyl dimerate, triisostearyl trilinoleate, C 12-15 alcohols benzoate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, diisostearyl fumarate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate/IPDI copolymer, and combinations thereof;
wherein said composition is self-supporting at room temperature and is further characterized by a viscosity measured during a second shear cycle that is within ±20% of the viscosity measured during a first shear cycle at every shear rate between 1 and 10 sec −1 , wherein said first and said second shear cycles are identical and comprise increasing shear rates from 1 to 1,000 sec −1 .
2. The method of claim 1 wherein the viscosity measured in said second shear cycle is within ±10% of the viscosity measured during said first shear cycle at every shear rate between 1 and 10 sec −1 .
3. The method of claim 1 wherein the viscosity measured in said second shear cycle is within ±5% of the viscosity measured during said first shear cycle at every shear rate between 1 and 10 sec −1 .
4. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity measured during said second shear cycle that is within ±20% of the viscosity measured during said first shear cycle at every shear rate between 10 and 100 sec −1 .
5. The method of claim 4 wherein the viscosity measured in said second shear cycle is within ±10% of the viscosity measured during said first shear cycle at every shear rate between 10 and 100 sec −1 .
6. The method of claim 4 wherein the viscosity measured in said second shear cycle is within ±5% of the viscosity measured during said first shear cycle at every shear rate between 10 and 100 sec −1 .
7. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 50 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 1 sec −1 as measured during said first shear cycle.
8. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 75 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 1 sec −1 as measured during said first shear cycle.
9. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 100 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 1 sec −1 as measured during said first shear cycle.
10. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 50 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 1 sec −1 as measured during said first and said second shear cycles.
11. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 75 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 1 sec −1 as measured during said first and said second shear cycles.
12. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 100 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 1 sec −1 as measured during said first and said second shear cycles.
13. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 50 Pa·sec at shear rates from 1 to 5 sec −1 as measured during said first shear cycle.
14. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 75 Pa·sec at shear rates from 1 to 5 sec −1 as measured during said first shear cycle.
15. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 100 Pa·sec at shear rates from 1 to 5 sec −1 as measured during said first shear cycle.
16. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 50 Pa·sec at shear rates from 1 to 5 sec −1 as measured during said first and said second shear cycles.
17. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 75 Pa·sec at shear rates from 1 to 5 sec −1 as measured during said first and said second shear cycles.
18. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 100 Pa·sec at shear rates from 1 to 5 sec −1 as measured during said first and said second shear cycles.
19. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 5 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 10 sec −1 as measured during said first shear cycle.
20. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 7.5 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 10 sec −1 as measured during said first shear cycle.
21. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 10 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 10 sec −1 as measured during said first shear cycle.
22. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 5 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 10 sec −1 as measured during said first and said second shear cycles.
23. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 7.5 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 10 sec −1 as measured during said first and said second shear cycles.
24. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 10 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 10 sec −1 as measured during said first and said second shear cycles.
25. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 5 Pa·sec at a shear rate from 10 to 50 sec −1 as measured during said first shear cycle.
26. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 7.5 Pa·sec at a shear rate from 10 to 50 sec −1 as measured during said first shear cycle.
27. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 10 Pa·sec at a shear rate from 10 to 50 sec −1 as measured during said first shear cycle.
28. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 5 Pa·sec at a shear rate from 10 to 50 sec −1 as measured during said first and said second shear cycles.
29. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 7.5 Pa·sec at a shear rate from 10 to 50 sec −1 as measured during said first and said second shear cycles.
30. The method of claim 1 further characterized by a viscosity greater than 10 Pa·sec at a shear rate from 10 to 50 sec −1 as measured during said first and said second shear cycles.
31. The method of claim 1 wherein said composition has a viscosity greater than 0.5 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 100 sec −1 as measured during said first shear cycle.
32. The method of claim 1 wherein said composition has a viscosity greater than 0.75 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 100 sec −1 as measured during said first shear cycle.
33. The method of claim 1 wherein said composition has a viscosity greater than 1 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 100 sec −1 as measured during said first shear cycle.
34. The method of claim 1 wherein said composition has a viscosity greater than 0.5 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 100 sec −1 as measured during said first and said second shear cycles.
35. The method of claim 1 wherein said composition has a viscosity greater than 0.75 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 100 sec −1 as measured during said first and said second shear cycles.
36. The method of claim 1 wherein said composition has a viscosity greater than 1 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 100 sec −1 as measured during said first and said second shear cycles.
37. The method of claim 1 further comprising a silicone T-resin.
38. The method of claim 37 wherein said silicone T-resin comprises siloxy moieties of the form:
[RSiO 3/2 ] a [R 1 SiO 3/2 ] b [R 2 SiO 3/2 ] c [R 3 3 SiO 1/2 ] d [R 3 2 SiO 2/2 ] e [SiO 4/2 ] f
where R is methyl; R 1 is C 2-20 alkyl or C 5-20 cycloalkyl; R 2 is phenyl, R 3 is C 1-20 alkyl, C 5-20 cycloalkyl, C 7-14 aralkyl, C 7-14 alkaryl, or C 6-10 aryl; and a, b, and c are such that their respective siloxy groups together comprise at least 90 mol percent of the total of siloxy moieties, and d, e, and f are such that their respective moieties together comprise less than 10 mol percent of all of siloxy moieties.
39. The method of claim 37 wherein said silicone T-resin is a polyphenylsilsesquioxane.
40. The method of claim 37 wherein said silicone T-resin has a refractive index of at least 1.5, measured as a film at 25° C.
41. The method of claim 7 wherein the average molecular weight of said silicone T-resin is between 5,000 and 6,000 Daltons.
42. The method of claim 1 wherein said sol-gel transition temperature T gel of said ester terminated poly(ester-amide) polymer is 70 to 85° C. and said composition has a hardness of at least 40 g.
43. The method of claim 1 wherein said sol-gel transition temperature T gel is 75° C.
44. The method of claim 1 , wherein said Stearyl Ethylenediamine/Neopentyl Glycol/Stearyl Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate copolymer comprises between 1 and 2.5% by weight of said composition and said first and second wax components collectively comprise between 5 and 12% by weight of said composition.
45. The method of claim 37 , wherein said Stearyl Ethylenediamine/Neopentyl Glycol/Stearyl Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate copolymer comprises between 1 and 2.5% by weight of said composition, said first and second wax components collectively comprise between 10 and less than 12% by weight of said composition, and said silicone T-resin comprises between 0.1 and 8% by weight of said composition.
46. A method for imparting an unctuous film to the lips comprising applying thereto a composition comprising:
(a) from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight Bis-Stearyl Ethylenediamine/Neopentyl Glycol/Stearyl Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate copolymer having an average molecular weight between 3,500 and 7,000 Daltons and being capable of forming a gel with low-polarity and nonpolar oils at or below a sol-gel transition temperature T gel of 70° C. to 85° C.;
(b) from 5 to 12% by weight of a first wax component comprising linear polyethylene and microcrystalline petroleum wax having a melting point above T gel ; wherein said first wax component equals or exceeds, on a weight basis, the amount of Bis-Stearyl Ethylenediamine/Neopentyl Glycol/Stearyl Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate copolymer;
(c) from 5 to 12% by weight of a second wax component comprising ozokerite and lanolin having a melting point at or below T gel ; and
(d) from 40 to 80% by weight of one or more low-polarity or nonpolar ester oils capable of forming a gel with said ester terminated poly(ester-amide) polymer at or below said sol-gel transition temperature T gel ; wherein the weight ratio of Bis-Stearyl Ethylenediamine/Neopentyl Glycol/Stearyl Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate copolymer to said ester oils is less than 1:30; wherein said ester oils comprise an oil selected from triisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, diisopropyl dimerate, triisostearyl trilinoleate, C 12-15 alcohols benzoate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, diisostearyl fumarate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate/IPDI copolymer, and combinations thereof;
wherein said composition is self-supporting at room temperature and is further characterized by a viscosity measured during a second shear cycle that is within ±20% of the viscosity measured during a first shear cycle at every shear rate between 1 and 10 sec −1 , wherein said first and said second shear cycles are identical and comprise increasing shear rates from 1 to 1,000 sec −1 ; and wherein said composition is characterized by:
(i) a viscosity greater than 100 Pa·sec at shear rates between 1 and 5 sec −1 when measured during said first and second shear cycles; and
(ii) a viscosity greater than 10 Pa·sec at shear rates between 10 and 50 sec −1 when measured during said first and second shear cycles; and
(iii) a viscosity greater than 1 Pa·sec at a shear rate of 100 sec −1 when measured during said first and second shear cycles.
47. The method of claim 46 further comprising from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of a silicone T-resin.
48. The method of claim 47 wherein said silicone T-resin is a polyphenylsilsesquioxane.
49. The method of claim 45 wherein the silicone T-resin is a polyphenylsilsesquioxane.