Formulations comprising ceramides and/or pseudoceramides and (alpha-)bisabolol for combating skin damage

1 . Cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation that can be applied to the skin or hair, comprising:

(a) one or more ceramides and/or pseudoceramides, and

(b) (alpha-)bisabolol,

the proportion by weight of (alpha-)bisabolol in the formulation being equal to or greater than the total proportion by weight of ceramides and/or pseudoceramides, and the total amount of components (a) and (b) being sufficient to strengthen the barrier of damaged and/or undamaged skin.

2 . Formulation according to claim 1 also comprising:

(c) cholesterol and/or one or more phytosterols, and

(d) one or more fatty acids, preferably palmitic acid and/or stearic acid.

3 . Formulation according to claim 2 wherein components (a), (b), (c) and (d) are used in a weight ratio of (0.5-3):(1-5):(0.5-3):(0.5-3).

4 . Formulation according to one of the preceding claims wherein the proportion of component (a) in the formulation ranges from 0.01 to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.01 to 10 wt. % and particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5 wt. %, and the proportion of component (b) in the formulation ranges from 0.001 to 20 wt. %, preferably from 0.01 to 10 wt. % and particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt. %.

5 . Cosmetic use of a formulation according to one of the preceding claims for strengthening the barrier function of damaged or undamaged skin or damaged or undamaged hair.

6 . Therapeutic or cosmetic method of strengthening the barrier function of damaged or undamaged skin or damaged or undamaged hair, comprising the following steps:

preparation of a formulation according to one of claims 1 - 4 , and

application of an effective amount of the mixture to the damaged or undamaged skin or damaged or undamaged hair.

7 . Use of a mixture of (a) one or more ceramides and/or pseudoceramides with (b) (alpha-)bisabolol for the preparation of a formulation according to one of claims 1 - 4 .

8 . Formulation, method or use according to one of the preceding claims wherein a pseudoceramide from the group comprising the following is used:

hydroxyethyl palmityloxyhydroxypropylpalrnitamide,

cetyloxypropyiglycerylmethoxypropylmyristamide,

1,3-bis(N-(2-hydroxypropyl)acylamino)-2-hydroxypropane, where acyl=lauryl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, isostearoyl or stearoyl, and

N-acylhydroxy-L-hydroxyproline alkyl ester, where acyl=lauryl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, isostearoyl or

stearoyl, and alkyl=C12-C20 alkyl, preferably unbranched, and mixtures thereof.

9 . Formulation, method or use according to one of claims 1 - 7 wherein the pseudoceramide used is an N-acylhydroxyamino acid ester of formula I:

in which

R 1 is a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl or alkenyl group having 5 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals,

R 2 is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 1 to 49 carbon atoms which is optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals,

Y 1 and Y 2 independently of one another are hydrogen or hydroxyl, and

either R 3 and R 4 independently of one another are hydrogen or linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms,

or R 3 and R 4 together are an alkylene radical having 1 to 3 carbon atoms and form a 5-, 6- or 7-membered heterocyclic ring together with the chain between R 3 and R 4 , said alkylene radical in turn optionally being substituted by 1 to 3 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl groups or by 1 to 3 hydroxyl radicals.

10 . Formulation, method or use according to claim 9 in which R 1 is a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl or alkenyl group having 5 to 24 carbon atoms which is optionally substituted by 1 to 6 hydroxyl radicals.

11 . Formulation, method or use according to claim 9 or 10 in which R 2 is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 2 to 23 carbon atoms which is zo optionally substituted by 1 to 6 hydroxyl radicals.

12 . Formulation, method or use according to claim 11 in which R 2 is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 2 to 23 carbon atoms which is optionally substituted by 1 to 3 hydroxyl radicals.

13 . Formulation, method or use according to one of the preceding claims 9 - 12 in which one of the two groups Y 1 and Y 2 is a hydroxyl radical and the other is a hydrogen atom.

14 . Formulation, method or use according to one of the preceding claims 9 - 13 in which

R 3 and R 4 independently of one another are hydrogen or linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl groups having 1, 2, 3 or 4 carbon atoms, or

R 3 and R 4 together are the alkylene radicals —CH 2 —,

—CH 2 —CH 2 —, —CH(OH)—, —CH(OH)—CH 2 — or —CH 2 —CH(OH)—.

15 . Formulation, method or use according to one of the preceding claims 9 - 14 in which

R 3 and R 4 are hydrogen atoms and at the same time Y 1 and Y 2 independently of one another are hydrogen atoms or hydroxyl radicals, or

R 3 and R 4 together are a —CH 2 — or —CH(OH)— group and form a 5-membered heterocyclic ring together with the chain between R 3 and R 4 , and at the same time Y 1 and Y 2 are hydrogen atoms or hydroxyl radicals.

16 . Formulation, method or use according to claim 15 in which

R 3 and R 4 are hydrogen atoms and at the same time Y 1 is a hydroxyl radical and Y 2 is a hydrogen atom (N-acylthreonine alkyl ester), or

R 3 and R 4 together are a —CH 2 — group and form a 5-membered heterocyclic ring together with the chain between R 3 and R 4 , and one of the two radicals Y 1 and Y 2 is a hydroxyl radical (N-acylhydroxyproline ester).

17 . Formulation, method or use according to claim 16 in which R 1 is an unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 24 carbon atoms and R 2 is an unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 2 to 23 carbon atoms.