INVERT EMULSIONS CONTAINING DHEA
Stable, recrystallization-resistant invert emulsions, suited, e.g., for preventing/treating the signs of chronological or actinic skin aging and for preventing/treating atrophy of the skin or mucous membranes, comprise a cosmetically/therapeutically effective amount of DHEA and/or chemical and/or biological precursor or derivative thereof, such invert emulsions also comprising a glycolic or hydroglycolic dispersed hydrophilic phase, a lipophilic continuous phase and an emulsifier having an HLB ranging from 2 to 7.
1 . An invert emulsion comprising a cosmetically/therapeutically effective amount of DHEA and/or chemical and/or biological precursor or derivative thereof, said invert emulsion also comprising a glycolic or hydroglycolic dispersed hydrophilic phase, a lipophilic continuous phase and a silicone emulsifier having an HLB ranging from 2 to 7, said DHEA and/or chemical and/or biological precursor or derivative thereof being solubilized in the glycolic or hydroglycolic dispersed hydrophilic phase, said invert emulsion being stable and recrystallization-resistant.
2 . (canceled)
3 . The stable invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 , said silicone emulsifier comprising lauryl methicone copolyol, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, a mixture of dimethicone copolyol and cyclomethicone, or a mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol with polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and hexyl laurate.
4 . The stable invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 , further comprising a coemulsifier having an HLB greater than 6.
5 . The stable invert emulsion as defined by claim 4 , said coemulsifier comprising ceteareth-20.
6 . The stable invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 , the volume proportion of glycol/hydroglycol, relative to the total volume of the dispersed phase, ranging from 10% to 90%.
7 . The stable invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 , said dispersed hydrophilic phase comprising at least one glycol selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, hexylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.
8 . The stable invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 , the water activity a w of said dispersed hydrophilic phase being less than 0.85.
9 . (canceled)
10 . A triple invert emulsion comprising a cosmetically/therapeutically effective amount of DHEA and/or chemical and/or biological precursor or derivative thereof, said triple invert emulsion also comprising a glycolic or hydroglycolic dispersed hydrophilic phase, a lipophilic continuous phase and an emulsifier having an HLB ranging from 2 to 7, and said triple invert emulsion being of hydrophilic phase/lipophilic phase/hydrophilic phase type which comprises an external hydrophilic phase and a lipophilic phase constituting, with an inner hydrophilic phase, an invert emulsion, said triple invert emulsion being stable and recrysallization-resistant.
11 . The stable invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 , further comprising one or more active agents selected from the group consisting of isoflavonoids, metalloproteinase inhibitors, carotenoids, antiglycation compounds, NO-synthase inhibitors, vitamins, desquamating agents, compounds increasing the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, anti-irritant compounds, compounds reducing irritation of neurogenic origin, muscle-relaxing compounds and depigmenting agents.
12 . The stable invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 , comprising a cosmetically/therapeutically effective amount of DHEA.
13 . The stable invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 , comprising a cosmetically/therapeutically effective amount of a precursor of DHEA.
14 . The stable invert emulsion as defined by claim 13 , said DHEA precursor being selected from the group consisting of Δ 5 -pregnenolone, 17 α-hydroxypregnenolone, diosgenin, hecogenin, hecogenin acetate, smilagenin and sarsapogenin.
15 . The stable invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 , comprising a cosmetically/therapeutically effective amount of DHEA derivative.
16 . The stable invert emulsion as defined by claim 15 , said DHEA derivative being selected from the group consisting of 7-α-OH-DHEA, 7-β-OH-DHEA, 7-keto-DHEA, 5-androstene-3,17-diol and 4-androstene-3,17-dione.
17 . The stable invert emulsion as defined by claim 15 , said DHEA derivative having the following structural formula (1):
in which R 1 and R 2 are, independently, a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 -C 12 alkyl radical which may optionally contain one or more heteroatoms, and may be optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from among —OR′ and/or —SR′ and/or —COOR′ and/or —NR′R′ and/or halogen and/or sulfate and/or phosphate and/or aryl and/or heterocycle, with the proviso that said heterocycle is an indole, a pyrimidine, a piperidine, a morpholine, a pyran, a furan, a piperazine, a pyridine; an alkylcarbonyl radical, in which the C 1 -C 24 alkyl moiety is linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, and is optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from among —OR′ and/or —SR′ and/or —COOR′ and/or —NR′R′ and/or halogen and/or sulfate and/or phosphate and/or aryl and/or heterocycle, with the proviso that said heterocycle is an indole, a pyrimidine, a piperidine, a morpholine, a pyran, a furan, a piperazine, a pyridine; an arylcarbonyl radical or an arylalkylcarbonyl radical optionally substituted with one or more groups —OR′ and/or —SR′ and/or —COOR′ and/or —NR′R′ and/or halogen and/or aryl and/or heterocycle; a group O═P(OH)OR′; a group (O) 2 SOR′; a trialkylsilyl (SiR′ 3 ) group in which the 3 groups R′ may be identical or different; a carbonyloxyalkyl (R′OCO) group; a carbonylaminealkyl (R′NHCO) group, in which R′ is a hydrogen atom, a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 -C 12 alkyl radical which may optionally contain one or more heteroatoms, optionally functionalized with one or more groups —OR′, —COOR′, halogen, —NR′R′; or with an aryl radical optionally functionalized with one or more groups —OR′, —COOR′, halogen, or —NR′R′, in which R′ is a hydrogen atom, a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, with the proviso that in each of the groups —NR′R′ and —NR′R′, the substituents R′ and R′ are identical or different.
18 . The stable invert emulsion as defined by claim 15 , said DHEA derivative comprising 3-O-acetyl-7-benzoyloxydehydroepiandrosterone.
19 . The stable invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 , comprising from 0.001% to 20% by weight of said DHEA and/or chemical and/or biological precursor or derivative thereof.
20 . The stable invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 , comprising from 0.2% to 4% by weight of said DHEA and/or chemical and/or biological precursor or derivative thereof.
21 . A topically applicable cosmetic/dermatological composition comprising a stable, recrystallization-resistant invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 , formulated into a topically applicable, cosmetically/dermatologically acceptable medium therefor.
22 . The cosmetic/dermatological composition as defined by claim 21 , comprising from 0.001% to 5% by weight of DHEA and/or chemical and/or biological precursor or derivative thereof; from 30% to 100% by weight of said dispersed hydrophilic phase; and from 0.5% to 8% by weight of said emulsifier having an HLB ranging from 2 to 7.
23 . The cosmetic/dermatological composition as defined by claim 22 , further comprising up to 5% by weight of a coemulsifier having an HBL greater than 6.
24 . The cosmetic/dermatological composition as defined by claim 23 , further comprising up to 50% by weight of water.
25 . A regime or regimen for preventing or treating chronological or actinic skin aging, comprising administering to an individual in need of such treatment, a stable, recrystallization-resistant invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 .
26 . A regime or regimen for treating and/or protecting the skin, the mucous membranes or the keratinous fibers, comprising administering to an individual in need of such treatment, a stable, recrystallization-resistant invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 .
27 . A regime or regimen for preventing or treating canities, comprising administering to an individual in need of such treatment, a stable, recrystallization-resistant invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 .
28 . A regime or regimen for attenuating pigmented skin spots, comprising administering to an individual in need of such treatment, a stable, recrystallization-resistant invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 .
29 . A regime or regimen for preventing or treating atrophy of the skin or mucous membranes, comprising administering to an individual in need of such treatment, a stable, recrystallization-resistant invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 .
30 . A regime or regimen for preventing or treating vulvar or vaginal atrophy, comprising administering to an individual in need of such treatment, a stable, recrystallization-resistant invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 .
31 . The stable invert emulsion as defined by claim 1 , comprising a cosmetically/therapeutically effective amount of DHEA, said invert emulsion also comprising a glycolic dispersed hydrophilic phase comprising propylene glycol, a lipophilic continuous phase and a silicone emulsifier having an HLB ranging from 2 to 7 which comprises alkyl methicone copolyol.