EXTRACT OF YOUNG FLOWERS AND COSMETIC USES
The invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient comprising at least one extract obtained from Hibiscus sinensis flowers, as well as a method for obtaining it, its cosmetic use for topical application, and the compositions including it.
1 . A cosmetic active ingredient comprising at least one extract obtained from Hibiscus sinensis flowers, said extract comprising at least 2 ppm of N-(1-deoxy-1-fructosyl) and/or at least 145 ppm of sarmentosin epoxide.
2 . The cosmetic active ingredient according to claim 1 , wherein the extract is obtained from white flowers and/or light pink flowers of Hibiscus sinensis.
3 . The cosmetic active ingredient according to claim 1 , wherein the extract is a hydroglycolic extract of Hibiscus sinensis.
4 . The cosmetic active ingredient according to claim 1 , wherein the extract f an isomeric of citric acid with a molar mass of 192 Da.
5 . The cosmetic active ingredient according to claim 1 , wherein the extract comprises less than 60 ppm of an isomeric of citric acid with a molar mass of 192 Da.
6 . The active ingredient according to claim 1 , wherein the extract comprises at least 50% carbohydrates by dry weight of the extract.
7 . The cosmetic active ingredients according to claim 1 , wherein at least 30% by dry weight of the carbohydrates present in the extract are oligosaccharides and polysaccharides with molar masses of between 360 and 1,620 Da.
8 . The active ingredient according to claim 1 , wherein the extract comprises minerals and/or proteins.
9 . The active ingredient according to claim 8 , wherein the proteins are peptides with molar masses below 2,000 Da.
10 . The active ingredient according to claim 1 , wherein the extract comprises less than 20% minerals.
11 . The active ingredient according to claim 1 , wherein the extract comprises less than 20% proteins.
12 . A method for obtaining an extract according to claim 1 , wherein it comprises a step for solubilization in a water/butylene glycol mixture, of Hibiscus sinensis flowers in order to obtain an extract comprising at least 2 ppm of N-(1-deoxy-1-fructosyl) and/or at least 145 ppm of sarmentosin epoxide.
13 . The method of claim 12 , wherein Hibiscus sinensis flowers are white to light pink color Hibiscus sinensis flowers.
14 . The method according to claim 12 , wherein it comprises carrying out the following steps:
solubilizing the flower powder in a water/butylene glycol mixture,
separating the soluble and insoluble phases, to recover the soluble phase,
filtrations,
sterilizing filtration.
15 . A method comprising topically applying on the skin of a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract obtained from Hibiscus sinensis flowers, said extract comprising at least 2 ppm of N-(1-deoxy-1-fructosyl) and/or at least 145 ppm of sarmentosin epoxide, or a composition containing the cosmetic active ingredient.
16 . (canceled)
17 . The method of claim 15 , wherein applying the cosmetic active ingredient prevents and/or combats skin aging.
18 . The method of claim 15 , wherein applying the cosmetic active ingredient:
promotes skin regeneration, and/or
regulates the epigenetic factors responsible for skin aging,
increases cell detoxification of the skin,
limits skin inflammation,
strengthens the skin immune barrier.
19 . A cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.1% by weight of a liquid active ingredient according to claim 1 .
20 . A cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.01% by weight of a solid active ingredient according to claim 1 .
21 . The cosmetic composition according to claim 19 , wherein it assumes the form of a gel, emulsion or cream.
22 . A cosmetic product for treating the skin for a skin anti-aging effect, wherein it consists of the topical application on the skin of a composition according to claim 19 .