Hair shaping process using fatty substances, non-silicone polymers or surfactants
The invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, preferably the hair, comprising at least the steps consisting in: a) applying to said keratin fibers a composition containing at least one substance chosen from fatty substances, non-silicone polymers and surfactants, b) applying a mechanical tension to said keratin fibers, and c) exposing said keratin fibers under mechanical tension to microwaves, at a pressure ranging from 50 000 to 250 000 Pa, in the presence of at least one solvent in vapor form on contact with the keratin fibers and without there being complete drying of the keratin fibers throughout the entire exposure to the microwaves, the solvent(s) in vapor form being entirely generated by evaporating at least one compound present, before emission of the microwaves, on contact with the keratin fibers, step a) taking place prior to step c).
1. A cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, comprising:
a) applying to said keratin fibers a composition comprising at least one of a fatty substance said composition being free of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxide at a pH above 12 or being free of reducing agents for cleaving disulfide bonds,
b) applying a mechanical tension to said keratin fibers, and
c) exposing said keratin fibers under mechanical tension to microwaves, at a pressure ranging from 50 000 to 250 000 Pa, in the presence of at least one solvent that compromises water in vapor form on contact with the keratin fibers and without there being complete drying of the keratin fibers throughout the entire exposure to the microwaves,
wherein the at least one solvent in vapor form being entirely generated by evaporating at least one solvent present, before emission of the microwaves, on contact with the keratin fibers, and
a) place prior to c).
2. The process as claimed in claim 1 , in which the pressure ranges from 75 000 to 150 000 Pa.
3. The process as claimed in claim 1 , in which said fatty substance(s) are chosen from C 6 -C 16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride plant oils, synthetic triglycerides, fluoro oils, fatty alcohols, non-salified fatty acids, fatty acid, fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, plant waxes, non-silicone waxes, silicones, and mixtures thereof.
4. The process as claimed in claim 1 , in which the fatty substance(s) are chosen from hydrocarbon waxes, plant waxes, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids, of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
5. The process as claimed in claim 1 , in which the composition in a) is an aqueous composition.
6. The process as claimed in claim 1 , in which a) is prior to b).
7. The process as claimed in claim 1 , in which b) is performed by applying at least one torsion, traction or compression constraint on the keratin materials.
8. The process as claimed in claim 1 , in which the duration of c) ranges from 1 second to 60 minutes.
9. The process as claimed in claim 1 , further comprising, before a), after c), or both before a) and after c), at least one treatment chosen from oxidation dyeing, direct dyeing, bleaching, permanent reshaping comprising one or more reducing agents, permanent reshaping comprising on one or more alkali metal, permanent reshaping comprising alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, a mask and a shampoo.
10. The process as claimed in claim 1 , wherein said keratin fibers are hair.