Peptides, compositions comprising them and uses in particular cosmetic uses
The peptides have the general following formula: X-Pro*-Pro*-Xaa-Y in which: •Xaa is selected from Leucine (Leu, L), Arginine (Arg, R), Lysine (Lys, K), Alanine (Ala, A), Serine (Ser, S), and Aspartic acid (Asp, D); •At the N terminal end of the peptide, X is selected from H, —CO—R1 and —SO 2 —R 1 ; •At the C terminal end of the peptide, Y is selected from OH, OR 1 , NH 2 , NHR 1 and NR 1 R 2 ; •R 1 and R 2 are, independently from each other, selected from an alkyle, aryle, aralkyle, alkylaryl, alkoxy and aryloxy group, that can be linear, branched, cyclic, poly-cyclic, non-saturated, hydroxylated, carbonylated, phosphorylated and/or sulfured, and which skeletum can comprise an heteroatom, in particular an O, S and/or N atom; •Pro* correspond to a Proline, an analogue or derivative thereof; •if X is H then Y is selected from OR 1 , NH 2 , NHR 1 and NR 1 R 2 , and if Y is OH then X is —CO— or —SO 2 —R 1 ; and the peptide hypoxanthine-Pro-Pro-Arg being excluded. The invention provides the use of the peptides of above formula I to stimulate the synthesis of the molecules constituting the dermal extracellular matrix, including collagen I and IV and elastin. A cosmetic treatment according to the invention includes anti-aging, anti-wrinkles, improving mechanical properties of the skin, firmness/tone/elasticity/suppleness/flexibility, increasing density and volume of the skin, restructuring effect, fighting stretch marks, improving skin barrier and/or skin hydration.
1. A topical composition comprising:
an amount of between 0.000001% and 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one peptide of the general following formula:
X-Pro*-Pro*-Xaa-Y (I)
Xaa is selected from Leucine (Leu, L), Arginine (Arg, R), Lysine (Lys, K), Alanine (Ala, A), Serine (Ser, S), and Aspartic acid (Asp, D);
at the N terminal end of the peptide, X is an acyl group CO—R 1 selected from octanoyl (C 8 ), decanoyl (C 10 ), lauroyl (C 12 ), myristoyl (C 14 ), palmitoyl (C 16 ), stearoyl (C 18 ), biotinoyl, elaidoyl, oleoyl and lipoyl;
at the C terminal end of the peptide, Y is selected from OH, OR 1 , NH 2 , NHR 1 and NR 1 R 2 ;
R 1 and R 2 , independently from each other, are selected from an alkyl, aryl, aralkyl, alkylaryl, alkoxy and aryloxy group, that can be linear, branched, cyclic, poly-cyclic, non-saturated, hydroxylated, carbonylated, phosphorylated and/or sulfured, and which backbone can comprise an heteroatom;
Pro* is a Proline, an analogue or derivative thereof; and
a physiologically acceptable topical medium for a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment or for a therapeutic treatment.
2. The topical composition according to claim 1 , wherein in formula I, Pro* is Proline.
3. The topical composition according to claim 1 , wherein Xaa is selected from Leucine (Leu, L) and Arginine (Arg, R), the peptide being X-PPL-Y or X-PPR-Y.
4. The topical composition according to claim 1 , wherein R 2 is an alkyl chain of 1 to 24 carbon atoms.
5. The topical composition according to claim 1 , wherein R 1 and/or R 2 is an alkyl chain of 1 to 24 carbon atoms.
6. The topical composition according to claim 1 , wherein Y is selected from OH, OMe, OEt and NH 2 .
7. The topical composition according to claim 6 , wherein Y is OH.
8. The topical composition according to claim 1 , wherein X is selected from myristoyl (C 14 ) and palmitoyl (C 16 ).
9. The topical composition according to claim 8 , wherein X is myristoyl.
10. The topical composition according to claim 9 , wherein the peptide is selected from Myr-PPL-OH and Myr-PPR-OH.
11. The topical composition according to claim 1 , wherein the backbone of R 1 and/or R 2 comprises a heteroatom selected from O, S, and N.
12. A method for a therapeutical treatment of a skin deficient in molecules constituting the dermal extracellular matrix, comprising applying to the skin of a person in need thereof the topical composition according to claim 1 to stimulate synthesis of at least one molecular constituting the dermal extracellular matrix, wherein each Pro* is proline and Y is OH.
13. A method for a topical cosmetic treatment, comprising applying a topical composition according to claim 1 to skin, wherein each Pro* is proline and Y is OH.
14. The method according to claim 13 , wherein the topical cosmetic treatment is an anti-ageing treatment.
15. The method according to claim 13 , wherein the topical cosmetic treatment is a treatment:
Of wrinkles and fine lines, and/or
For ameliorating the mechanical properties of skin, firming, toning, elasticity, flexibility and suppleness, and/or
For increasing the density and volume of skin (volumating or re-pulping effect), and/or
For restructuring skin,
For fighting strechmarks,
For improving skin barrier, and/or
For skin hydration.