Application of dehydroascorbic acid or derivatives/isomers thereof for artificially coloring the skin
Dehydroascorbic acid and polymeric/monomeric derivatives and isomers thereof are useful for artificially coloring the skin and more particularly as a skin self-tanning agent; the dehydroascorbic acid may be formed “in situ” from ascorbic acid or a derivative or salt thereof via chemical oxidation and/or via enzymatic oxidation, and a two-component agent thereof includes a) a first component (B) containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least ascorbic acid or a derivative or salt thereof; b) a second component (C) containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one chemical oxidizing agent and/or one enzymatic oxidizing agent; components (B) and (C) being stored separately.
1. A regime or regimen for artificially coloring the skin, comprising topically applying onto the skin of an individual seeking such treatment, a composition containing a thus effective amount of dehydroascorbic acid and/or a monomeric derivative thereof of formula (I) below and/or an isomer thereof of formula (I′) below and/or a polymer derivative thereof:
in which OR 1 and OR 2 , which may be identical or different, are each OH; a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 alkoxy radical; a glycoside; a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 aliphatic carboxylic acid ester, which may be substituted with an aryl group or a heterocycle; an aryl or heterocyclic carboxylic acid ester which may be substituted with at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical; a phosphate group; a sulfate group, and also polymeric derivatives thereof, formulated into a topically applicable physiologically acceptable medium therefor;
wherein the dehydroascorbic acid and/or a monomeric derivative thereof of formula (I) and/or an isomer thereof of formula (I′) and/or a polymer derivative thereof is combined with ascorbic acid or a derivative or salt thereof.
2. The regime or regimen as defined by claim 1 , said composition comprising a dehydroascorbic acid compound of formula (I) having the structural formula:
3. The regime or regimen as defined by claim 1 , said composition comprising the compound of formula (I′), 3a,6-dihydroxy-tetrahydro-furo[3,2-b]furan-2,3-dione having the structural formula:
4. The regime or regimen as defined by claim 1 , said composition comprising a polymeric dimeric compound having the structural formula (II) below:
in which OR 1 , OR 2 , OR 3 and OR 4 , which may be identical or different, are each OH; a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 alkoxy radical; a glycoside; a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 aliphatic carboxylic acid ester, which may be substituted with an aryl group or a heterocycle; an aryl or heterocyclic carboxylic acid ester which may be substituted with at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical; a phosphate group; or a sulfate group.
5. The regime or regimen as defined by claim 4 , said composition comprising a compound having the following structural formula:
6. The regime or regimen as defined by claim 1 , said composition comprising dehydroascorbic acid formed “in situ” from ascorbic acid or a derivative or salt thereof via chemical oxidation and/or via enzymatic oxidation.
7. The regime or regimen as defined by claim 1 , said composition further comprising one or more additional stabilizers, and/or a photoprotective agent and/or a wetting agent and/or penetrant and/or at least one additional colorant.
8. The regime or regimen as defined by claim 1 , said composition further comprising at least one additional active agent selected from the group consisting of organic UV screening agents, inorganic UV screening agent, moisturizers, desquamating agents, agents improving the skin barrier function, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermo-decontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules and/or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation and/or keratinocyte differentiation, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, NO synthase inhibitors, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists, agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, agents stimulating the energy metabolism of cells, tensioning agents, fat restructuring agents, slimming agents, agents promoting the cutaneous microcirculation, calmatives and/or anti-irritants, sebo-regulating or anti-seborrheic agents, astringents, cicatrizing agents, anti-inflammatory agents and anti-acne agents.
9. The regime or regimen as defined by claim 1 , said composition further comprising at least one additional active agent selected from the group consisting of matting agents, soft-focus effect fillers, fluorescers, agents promoting the naturally pinkish coloring of the skin, abrasive fillers and exfoliants.