Process for permanently reshaping the hair using particular aminosilicones
A process for permanently reshaping keratin fibers, comprising the application to the keratin fibers, before reducing and/or after the fixing, of a pre-treatment and/or post-treatment cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one aminosilicone, as defined herein, in non-microemulsified form.
1. A process for permanently reshaping keratin fibers, comprising:
(i) applying a reducing composition to the keratin fibers; and
(ii) oxidizing the keratin fibers;
wherein the process further comprises applying to the keratin fibers, before (i) and/or after (ii), a pre-treatment and/or post-treatment cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one aminosilicone in non-microemulsified form chosen from aminosilicones of formulae (I) and (II) below:
wherein in formula (I):
m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges from 1 to 1 000, n is a number ranging from 0 to 999 and m is a number ranging from 1 to 1 000; R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydroxyl and C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radicals, wherein at least one of the radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 is chosen from C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radicals; and
wherein in formula (II):
p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1 000,
p is a number ranging from 0 to 999 and q is a number ranging from 1 to 1 000;
R 1 , R 2 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydroxyl and C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radicals, wherein at least one of the radicals R 1 and R 2 is chosen from C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radicals.
2. The process according to claim 1 , wherein in formula (I) the sum (n+m) ranges from 50 to 250.
3. The process according to claim 1 , wherein in formula (I) the sum (n+m) ranges from 100 to 200.
4. The process according to claim 1 , wherein in formula (I) the n is a number ranging from 49 to 249.
5. The process according to claim 1 , wherein in formula (I) the n is a number ranging from 125 to 175.
6. The process according to claim 1 , wherein in formula (I) the m is a number ranging from 1 to 10.
7. The process according to claim 1 , wherein in formula (I) the m is a number ranging from 1 to 5.
8. The process according to claim 1 , wherein in formula (II) the sum (p+q) ranges from 50 to 350.
9. The process according to claim 1 , wherein in formula (II) the sum (p+q) ranges from 150 to 250.
10. The process according to claim 1 , wherein in formula (II) the p is a number ranging from 49 to 349.
11. The process according to claim 1 , wherein in formula (II) the p is a number ranging from 159 to 239.
12. The process according to claim 1 , wherein in formula (II) the q is a number ranging from 1 to 10.
13. The process according to claim 1 , wherein in formula (II) the q is a number ranging from 1 to 5.
14. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
15. The process according to claim 1 , wherein, for the at least one aminosilicone of formula (I), the hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1.
16. The process according to claim 15 , wherein the hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio ranges from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1.
17. The process according to claim 16 , wherein the hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio is equal to 0.3:1.
18. The process according to claim 1 , wherein, for the at least one aminosilicone of formula (II), the hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1.
19. The process according to claim 18 , wherein the hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio ranges from 1:0.9 to 1:1.
20. The process according to claim 19 , wherein the hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio is equal to 1:0.95.
21. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one aminosilicone of formula (I) has a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 2 000 to 1 000 000.
22. The process according to claim 21 , wherein the at least one aminosilicone of formula (I) has a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 3 500 to 200 000.
23. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one aminosilicone of formula (II) has a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 2 000 to 200 000.
24. The process according to claim 23 , wherein the at least one aminosilicone of formula (II) has a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 5 000 to 100 000.
25. The process according to claim 24 , wherein the at least one aminosilicone of formula (II) has a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 10 000 to 50 000.
26. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one aminosilicone is chosen such that the contact angle with water of keratin fibers treated with a composition comprising 2% AM (active materials) of the at least one aminosilicone ranges from 90 to 180°.
27. The process according to claim 26 , wherein the at least one aminosilicone is chosen such that the contact angle with water of keratin fibers treated with a composition comprising 2% AM (active materials) of the at least one aminosilicone ranges from 90 to 130°.
28. The process according claim 1 , wherein the composition comprising at least one aminosilicone is chosen such that the contact angle with water of keratin fibers treated with the composition ranges from 90 to 180°.
29. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the pH of the pre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition comprising at least one aminosilicone ranges from 2 to 10.
30. The process according to claim 29 , wherein the pH of the pre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition comprising at least one aminosilicone ranges from 3 to 9.
31. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the concentration of the at least one aminosilicone in the pre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
32. The process according to claim 31 , wherein the concentration of the at least one aminosilicone in the pre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition ranges from 0.1 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
33. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the pre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition is left to act on the keratin fibers for a period of time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes.
34. The process according to claim 33 , wherein the pre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition is left to act on the keratin fibers for a period of time ranging from 3 to 30 minutes.
35. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the pre-treatment and/or post-treatment composition further comprises at least one additive chosen from vitamins and derivatives thereof, provitamins, antioxidants, essential oils, wetting agents, silicone and non-silicone sunscreens, preserving agents, sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, pigments, moisturizers, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, plasticizers, hydroxy acids, electrolytes, solvents and fragrances.
36. The process according to claim 35 , wherein the vitamins and derivatives thereof are chosen from vitamin E, vitamin E acetate, vitamin C and its esters, B vitamins, vitamin A alcohol and retinol, and vitamin A acid and retinoic acid and derivatives thereof.
37. The process according to claim 35 , wherein the provitamins are chosen from panthenol, vitamin A palmitate, niacinamide, and ergocalciferol.
38. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the keratin fibers are hair.
39. A pre-treatment and/or post-treatment cosmetic composition for pre-treatment and/or post-treatment in the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium in said composition, at least one aminosilicone in non-microemulsified form chosen from aminosilicones of formulas (I) and (II) below:
wherein in formula (I):
m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges from 1 to 1 000,
n is a number ranging from 0 to 999 and m is a number ranging from 1 to 1 000;
R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydroxyl and C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radicals, wherein at least one of the radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 is chosen from C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radicals; and
wherein in formula (II):
p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1 000,
p is a number ranging from 0 to 999 and q is a number ranging from 1 to 1 000;
R 1 , R 2 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydroxyl and C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radicals, wherein at least one of the radicals R 1 and R 2 is chosen from C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radicals.